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• Posted By : UHUNT APP - Jesse Farr
• Posted On : Mar 31, 2020
• Comments : 1
• Views : 4870
• Likes : 12
• Category : PIG DOGGING » ARTICLES, TIPS & HOW TO GUIDES
• Description :

  Dogs that start late? Things to think about

Overview

• 
  Dogs that start late? Things to think about

  I have had pups and young dogs start working on the first pig they have ever seen and on the flip side also had them take a dozen trips and over 20-30 pigs easily before they show any interest, but then they click and are finding their own within a couple of trips. Go figure; they leave you scratching your head.

  So you have gone and got yourself a puppy, or young dog, and whenever you decide to take it out hunting for the first time, it shows very little to no interest? And maybe the next hunt few hunts they continue to show no interest.

  But you know what! That's completely ok, relax I know its frustrating, and your mates might take the piss and say "its a shit dog" "get rid of it" blah blah but stuff em, egos will be hurt but put them aside. There are a fair few reasons why, and a few things you can do to try and help them along.

  Firstly many factors could contribute to why your pup or young dog doesn't want to work straight away. Understanding these will help you help your dog. Hopefully.

  --- The pup may be very smart with a high self-preservation mode. Some dogs know what they do is dangerous and instinct tells them they're not ready to punch their time card yet, until they are physically and mentally robust enough to handle it. Breeding will also be a contributing factor with bull breeds with very high prey drive, and less self-preservation are generally more likely to start earlier than other breed types.

  --- Being overwhelmed by the entirely different and new environment. This could be a variety of factors, lots of bright lights, numerous head torches, especially on unfamiliar people, along with their voices. New or strange dogs, a different ute or vehicle, simply being out at night, loads of "high energy" being thrown around by dogs and other people along with loud strange noises. Other animals they see and possibly encounter and also the pigs themselves can play a significant role.
  
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  --- The dogs confidence, or lack thereof. This may be diminished due to several reasons, things such as being suppressed or overwhelmed by other dogs in the team at home or on the ute or in the cage. Not having been exposed to any of these new things before, or very limited times. Having experienced these situations negatively before will have a big impact on the dog's confidence and behaviour.

  --- Pressure being placed on the dog. This doesn't always have to be physical pressure; some dogs can react or fold under pressure when you eyeball them, or by using your physical presence. We can, unfortunately, do this to the dog without us being aware of it at all. Dogs feed off your body language and energy; if you are nervous or frustrated about your dog not working, then they are going to 100% sense that from you, and react accordingly.

  --- Overexposure to hunting. If you take a pup or young dog acting in the ways listed above, continually showing them and exposing them to pigs, will ultimately do more harm than good in the majority of most cases, and achieve nothing, except frustration.

  --- The dogs health. A very important factor often overlooked, always ensure no physical ailments are effecting them. Some of these can be more difficult to spot e.g. a broken, or chipped tooth may prevent a dog from holding properly as it is causing discomfort or pain, it may want too but physically can't do it.

  So what can you do?

  --- You can leave the dog at home to grow up and mature both physically and mentally as there really is no rush, pups are a long term investment, and them missing out on a few trips will just leave them keener, as the team has gone away and left them at home.

  --- Positively expose the pup to different situations they will encounter out hunting. For example, going for a bushwalk with your dog in the dark with a head torch, even a mate or two and their dogs you will hunt with, desensitize them to a cap gun etc. all to make them more comfortable with it.

  --- Get the pup confident on different utes or vehicles like quads or buggies with different cages or crated etc. make it all fun and positive in their eyes, make them comfy. It's not soft to give your dogs a mattress in the cage; it's looking after their longevity at the end of the day!

  --- Remain calm and relaxed. No stress! As the dogs will all feed off it and react accordingly.

  --- When you take the pup or young dog for a hunt, leave them in the cage or chained up to just observe and be a spectator until they begin to show interest and frustration at not being able to join in.
  
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  --- Once they start to show interest, let them have a look, then deny them the next opportunity, be random, show a couple, miss a couple, don't flood them thinking the more, the better, as it is often not the case. You will build their drive, and they will be screaming to get amongst it before you know it.

  --- Once they start, manage to the best of your ability what they actually work. A big negative experience early on can set some dogs back for good, some it doesn't make any difference. If the best under 14s boxer in Australia, was to fight Mike Tyson even now, he would quit boxing and never do it again, as it's sure not fun anymore! If you get my drift.

  Remember, there is no black and white; all dogs are different and are not programmed computers. What works for one may not for another! Hope this helps.

  Below is my old girl Chance RIP, Tommy and Lincs mum, who grew up with Coop, and was a late starter, but she clicked one night and never looked back. An honest handy enough dog in her own right, caught me loads over the years and a lot solo. Very smart bitch hunted her whole career in just a leather neck collar, and retired on the couch. You get out what you put in folks.
  
  
  
  Written By
  Grieg Tonkins
  Blue Collar Canines
  
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